I suppose, as an historian, that they should be footnotes, but I will save the footnotes to post photos once I return home. It is the last night for us in Prague before we travel back, and it was a great trip. The weather was great, food was good, beer better than average, and it was simply fun.
Some last minute observations about the trip. Today was spent buying prizes, and seeing favorite places once again. Steve pointed out something that made me think a bit--should I assume that I will never see Prague again? Do I need to have those lifetime memories? I had always thought that I would return, and I have, so I have to say I have never thought about visiting here like that If I do come back, I have no doubt that I still have plenty to see and experience in Prague and especially the rest of the country. But if I don't, I do feel like I have learned about and know much of the city, and I can take that with me.
I know it a bit better after this trip. With the push of a new traveler to the city, I visited parts that I have never seen before, and even if I have seen them, I have looked at them differently. Steve is a very good traveler, and ithat helped it be a great adventure. This trip has shown that sometimes old friends are the best friends. It was comfortable, and while I think that we pushed each other in many areas, it was done safely and kindly. This view is not a small compliment--I appreciate him, and it was good. I hope that he feels the same.
This blog has been fun, and while some might think that it odd that I would be willing to spend so much time while traveling in front of a computer, this has been a positive part of the trip. It has served to focus my thoughts and forced me to reflect on what I have seen and what I have felt. I know that I will never be a great writer, as I simply write as and how I talk, and I am but a stupid Norwegian from theh backwords of Wisconsin, as one of my grad schook teachers pointed out. But it is a process, and certainly the more you write the better you write. I think that most of the time I put subject and verb thingies in the right place.
Photographically, this trip has been interesting, and it will take longer to process (literally and figuratively) the photos I have taken. I took about 60 sheets of 4X5 film, and I earned each one. And learned on each one. I cannot wait to see the results. I am hoping for 5-7 that I like. I took nearly 75o digital photos on my little point and shoot Nikon. Clearly I am practicing the "Blind Robin" approach to photography--even a blind robin gets a worm once in a while. Or at least they are optimistic that they will. I know the limitations of the camera, but I still think that there might be a few that I like and are worth printing. I will make a web site, and share the address of that once I am done.
That is it from Prague. I will write once more when I have had some time to process a bit more. Thanks to all of you who have left comments, or written emails noting that you have actually read what I wrote. I am sorry if I did not respond to all of you in person, but know that they were important to the process.
I will share more in person, if you are interested, once I get back, probably late tomorrow.
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Mass 'n be minor
Good morning from Prague. It is 11AM and I have already been up for almost 7 hours--can you believe that? This morning Steve and I got up and that ungodly early hour so that we could be just a bit closer to God and go to the 7AM mass in the cathedral. It was warm and rainy on our way up the hill, but we made in time for one or two photos before the service, and then went to mass.
At mass, we made up 25% of those attending--it was us, the priest and acolyte, and four older women. We sat through mass in Czech, and took communion--to not do so would have been confusing to everyone. While I did not understand anything, I was able to follow along--it helps that the general order of a mass hasn't changed in 1500 years. I have learned that by osmosis, if nothing else. And it was interesting--the city is apparently filled with beautiful women, so Steve keeps reminding me, but I have seen none as beautiful as the ancient little old woman who shared "peace be with you" in Czech as the congregation greeted each other. Faces like that indicate a life of grace, both learned and earned, and lived. And she was beautiful.
Speaking of grace. A few thoughts about all of this. First, some of you may be shocked that I did make it to church, much less a mass. You may be even more surprized that no walls cracked or windows wobbled as I attended and participated. I have to admit that I was a bit worried. Maybe it was the fact that I have been essentially worshiping the grace of all of this throughout the past few days, with the beauty that I have seen. Maybe all of that has imparted enough grace on me to ease me through the doors and the service.
I also was aware of the beauty of the cathedral itself. I have been several times, but there were moments when there but two of us in the main sanctuary. Arches soared to the heavens, and framed windows that took your breath away. While smaller than some cathedrals, it still dominates the skyline, and when inside, it dominates the viewer. Equally impressive, though much smaller and intimate, was the chapel that held the mass. Arches, in double layers, and with lines which drew your eyes upwards, held up the weight of the church which climbed for a hundred feet above us.
Which brings me to the title of this blog. My apologies to J.S. Bach, but the experience today and the whole cathedral concept is to convince man that he is minor in the scheme of things. Majesty is from major, if my Latin from google is correct, and the majesty of the whole building and I suppose the whole concept of a Christian god cements this relationship. The building itself is but a metaphor for the major and the minor. I suppose that we can and do sometimes see this same relationship when looking at say, the Grand Canyon, but it is impressive when man, the minor, creates such majesty to remind himself of the relationship.
If you have about 1,000 pages of free time, read Ken Follett's Pillars of the Earth. It pretty accurately portrays what it means for all those involved to actually build such a building. That this cathedral took 700+ years to complete indicates how difficult it is put together such an institution. And how difficult it is to portray majesty for us minors.
At mass, we made up 25% of those attending--it was us, the priest and acolyte, and four older women. We sat through mass in Czech, and took communion--to not do so would have been confusing to everyone. While I did not understand anything, I was able to follow along--it helps that the general order of a mass hasn't changed in 1500 years. I have learned that by osmosis, if nothing else. And it was interesting--the city is apparently filled with beautiful women, so Steve keeps reminding me, but I have seen none as beautiful as the ancient little old woman who shared "peace be with you" in Czech as the congregation greeted each other. Faces like that indicate a life of grace, both learned and earned, and lived. And she was beautiful.
Speaking of grace. A few thoughts about all of this. First, some of you may be shocked that I did make it to church, much less a mass. You may be even more surprized that no walls cracked or windows wobbled as I attended and participated. I have to admit that I was a bit worried. Maybe it was the fact that I have been essentially worshiping the grace of all of this throughout the past few days, with the beauty that I have seen. Maybe all of that has imparted enough grace on me to ease me through the doors and the service.
I also was aware of the beauty of the cathedral itself. I have been several times, but there were moments when there but two of us in the main sanctuary. Arches soared to the heavens, and framed windows that took your breath away. While smaller than some cathedrals, it still dominates the skyline, and when inside, it dominates the viewer. Equally impressive, though much smaller and intimate, was the chapel that held the mass. Arches, in double layers, and with lines which drew your eyes upwards, held up the weight of the church which climbed for a hundred feet above us.
Which brings me to the title of this blog. My apologies to J.S. Bach, but the experience today and the whole cathedral concept is to convince man that he is minor in the scheme of things. Majesty is from major, if my Latin from google is correct, and the majesty of the whole building and I suppose the whole concept of a Christian god cements this relationship. The building itself is but a metaphor for the major and the minor. I suppose that we can and do sometimes see this same relationship when looking at say, the Grand Canyon, but it is impressive when man, the minor, creates such majesty to remind himself of the relationship.
If you have about 1,000 pages of free time, read Ken Follett's Pillars of the Earth. It pretty accurately portrays what it means for all those involved to actually build such a building. That this cathedral took 700+ years to complete indicates how difficult it is put together such an institution. And how difficult it is to portray majesty for us minors.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Starbucks and Sensibility...
It is Tuesday night, and the week has flown by--only one more day here in Praha and then back to the states. Today was another gem of a day, and one that we hardly deserve in the middle of March. Temperature was in the 50s again, with sun for most of the day. We have forgotten the idea of traveling beyond Prague, as there is too much to see here.
Today was a good example of this. We started out late, as I have found out that Steve is not an early traveler--I was at the coffee shop at 9:00 and felt like a sluggard. Steve showed up at 10:40, as he had fallen asleep again. Mind you, they are reconstructing the apartment next to us, so there was hammering and banging on the turn of 8:00, so it is almost impressive. But it is a vacation, and its not like either of has agendas to follow. We wandered up to the hostel where I first stayed in 1999. At the time, it was rather run-down, and tired. Today, it is a five star hotel, and is not where I could stay and still afford to eat. The bell captain showed us one of the rooms and it is impressive. Take a look: http://www.hotel-imperial.cz/ It is as nice as any first class Marriott or Hilton. Even booking for tomorrow, the rate is 149 Euro, or about $225, which would make it a real bargain in any major city.
Our target for our wanderings was the Petrinske area of Prague, which is in Praha 8, so it is a hike, and most of it is uphill. It was worth the climb and the long walk. We, being brighter than most, skipped the funicular railway that would have taken us up this beast of a hill, and walked. Ouch. But what a beautiful walk. As mentioned, the weather was spectacular, and it was wonderful to see the early signs of spring everywhere. It is getting greener by the hour here, and many of the flowering trees and shrubs are beginning to bloom. They have a yellow equivalent of our redbud tree, and they are striking. The walk was also memorable for the different views of the castle and the cathedral. It was worth the extra wear and tear. That is what motrin is for, and it helps you sleep!
So what about Starbucks? It wasn't just a teaser headline. On the way down, we walked by the one Starbucks in the whole city, and we stopped and had a latte. The small latte cost 95 K, about $5.30. While that is expensive compared to US Starbucks, it was more noticeable because of the contrasts. On the way up the "hill" we stopped for a beer and fries, and the beer, the best I have had while here, was 21 K, or about $1.10. It was 1/2 liter of high-test, prefect beer, and it cost about one-fifth of the coffee at Starbucks. It just made me wonder what the US would be if beer was that much cheaper than coffee? Would we be more laid back? Happier? Have more accidents? More sensible? I am going to lobby for that when I get home.
Nothing profound today--just a lazy day enjoying the city and the weather. What a great vacation!
Today was a good example of this. We started out late, as I have found out that Steve is not an early traveler--I was at the coffee shop at 9:00 and felt like a sluggard. Steve showed up at 10:40, as he had fallen asleep again. Mind you, they are reconstructing the apartment next to us, so there was hammering and banging on the turn of 8:00, so it is almost impressive. But it is a vacation, and its not like either of has agendas to follow. We wandered up to the hostel where I first stayed in 1999. At the time, it was rather run-down, and tired. Today, it is a five star hotel, and is not where I could stay and still afford to eat. The bell captain showed us one of the rooms and it is impressive. Take a look: http://www.hotel-imperial.cz/ It is as nice as any first class Marriott or Hilton. Even booking for tomorrow, the rate is 149 Euro, or about $225, which would make it a real bargain in any major city.
Our target for our wanderings was the Petrinske area of Prague, which is in Praha 8, so it is a hike, and most of it is uphill. It was worth the climb and the long walk. We, being brighter than most, skipped the funicular railway that would have taken us up this beast of a hill, and walked. Ouch. But what a beautiful walk. As mentioned, the weather was spectacular, and it was wonderful to see the early signs of spring everywhere. It is getting greener by the hour here, and many of the flowering trees and shrubs are beginning to bloom. They have a yellow equivalent of our redbud tree, and they are striking. The walk was also memorable for the different views of the castle and the cathedral. It was worth the extra wear and tear. That is what motrin is for, and it helps you sleep!
So what about Starbucks? It wasn't just a teaser headline. On the way down, we walked by the one Starbucks in the whole city, and we stopped and had a latte. The small latte cost 95 K, about $5.30. While that is expensive compared to US Starbucks, it was more noticeable because of the contrasts. On the way up the "hill" we stopped for a beer and fries, and the beer, the best I have had while here, was 21 K, or about $1.10. It was 1/2 liter of high-test, prefect beer, and it cost about one-fifth of the coffee at Starbucks. It just made me wonder what the US would be if beer was that much cheaper than coffee? Would we be more laid back? Happier? Have more accidents? More sensible? I am going to lobby for that when I get home.
Nothing profound today--just a lazy day enjoying the city and the weather. What a great vacation!
Monday, March 10, 2008
Monday late...
Just a quick post as it is late and frankly, I am tired. Today was an absolutely wonderful day. Temperatures had to be in the 60s, and it was great to walk around. More sun--I will certainly be more tan than any one who stayed in Ohio, with the exception of a good friend who is tanning... I am tired in part because we walked to the castle, and it was, as those who have done it know, a hike. It was made more of an adventure because I brought my camera, and that 35 pounds seemed like much more than that by the time we made it up the last hill. It was a bit frustrating, as we had dawdled throughout the day and we missed the light Not that it would have mattered--the wind was so strong I would not have been able to take the photo that I had planned, as it would have shaken the camera. I see (and feel) another trip up the hill.
This afternoon we went through the Jewish Quarter, and it is sobering and thought provoking. There were 130, 000 or Jewish people in Praha at the start of the German Protectorate in 1938 after the Munich Accords. By the start of the war, the number was less as many fled, if they could, or if they could bear to leave their homes and their lives. More than 78,000 Jews from Bohemia and the surrounding area were killed by the Nazi regime , and less than 10,000 returned at all to the area at the end of the war. Many of those later fled to the US or later, to Israel, to escape the anti-Jewish sentiment that was prevalent in the communist east.
I suppose that these numbers are but a fraction of the more than 6 million Jews killed across Europe, or the 15-20 million Russians who died in those six years. But there two visual representations of those 78,000 in Prague that almost makes your heart stop. The Pinkus Synagogue contains both of them. The synagogue is essential empty, but the walls are covered with every name of all those who were killed, with their date of birth and the date of their death, if known. Names of children, mothers, fathers, grandparents, and those who never had a chance for a family all are recorded in a neat, hand-lettered script. When you see that three year olds and teenagers, the middle-aged and the elderly all were wiped out, often within days of each other, it brings to your heart that those 78,000 were not just names. It makes you imagine what all 6 million plus names would look like, and the loss is incalculable, but more so, unimaginable. How big would that building have to be?
Further putting a face on an unimaginable number is the art exhibit of the children of the "local" concentration camp. It was not a death camp like Auschwicz or Mauthausen, but more of a transit camp for thousands who were later destined for those camps. The camp housed children--many thousands passed through the camp, and thousands died at the camp from disease and even starvation. While there, in an attempt to make it "normal" as possible, the Jewish community structure developed schools and taught art, music and all the normal subjects, all in the most abnormal of circumstances. This artwork is on display less than fifty feet away from the names of some of the artists who were killed. These artists, some only six years old, drew pictures of what the transit trains to the death camps looked like, and drew heartbreaking pictures of what they remember before the camps.
Maybe it is easier to imagine the horror of 6 million by seeing 78,000 names, and easier still by seeing the artwork of a few children.
More from Prague tomorrow.
This afternoon we went through the Jewish Quarter, and it is sobering and thought provoking. There were 130, 000 or Jewish people in Praha at the start of the German Protectorate in 1938 after the Munich Accords. By the start of the war, the number was less as many fled, if they could, or if they could bear to leave their homes and their lives. More than 78,000 Jews from Bohemia and the surrounding area were killed by the Nazi regime , and less than 10,000 returned at all to the area at the end of the war. Many of those later fled to the US or later, to Israel, to escape the anti-Jewish sentiment that was prevalent in the communist east.
I suppose that these numbers are but a fraction of the more than 6 million Jews killed across Europe, or the 15-20 million Russians who died in those six years. But there two visual representations of those 78,000 in Prague that almost makes your heart stop. The Pinkus Synagogue contains both of them. The synagogue is essential empty, but the walls are covered with every name of all those who were killed, with their date of birth and the date of their death, if known. Names of children, mothers, fathers, grandparents, and those who never had a chance for a family all are recorded in a neat, hand-lettered script. When you see that three year olds and teenagers, the middle-aged and the elderly all were wiped out, often within days of each other, it brings to your heart that those 78,000 were not just names. It makes you imagine what all 6 million plus names would look like, and the loss is incalculable, but more so, unimaginable. How big would that building have to be?
Further putting a face on an unimaginable number is the art exhibit of the children of the "local" concentration camp. It was not a death camp like Auschwicz or Mauthausen, but more of a transit camp for thousands who were later destined for those camps. The camp housed children--many thousands passed through the camp, and thousands died at the camp from disease and even starvation. While there, in an attempt to make it "normal" as possible, the Jewish community structure developed schools and taught art, music and all the normal subjects, all in the most abnormal of circumstances. This artwork is on display less than fifty feet away from the names of some of the artists who were killed. These artists, some only six years old, drew pictures of what the transit trains to the death camps looked like, and drew heartbreaking pictures of what they remember before the camps.
Maybe it is easier to imagine the horror of 6 million by seeing 78,000 names, and easier still by seeing the artwork of a few children.
More from Prague tomorrow.
Self indulgence...
I suppose that a blog is the ultimate in believing that you are important. Think about it. Here I am writing and pretending that what I write is of interest and of importance. Well, I am dissuaded from that notion, but not from the process of writing. So, if you are still with me and still reading, thanks, and let me know what YOU are thinking. Fair is fair.
It is another wonderful day in Prague. I cannot believe the weather, and all I can say is that we have been blessed and lucky beyond belief. I had watched the 10 day weather forecast before I left and it said rain and cloudy almost every day. It is nice to know that weather forecasters are lousy here, too. Tell me that people really thought that Columbus would have more snow in single snowfall than they ever had before. Well, at least we are on the positive side of bad weather forecasts!
There have been many changes in Praha that I have noticed, some since last time about 2 years ago, and many since the first time that I visited. Not all our good, and not all are bad, but they are differences. There is a tremendous increase in the numbers and percent of the people who can and do speak English. Every shop and pub has someone who speaks it quite well or well enough to communicate what you would like. Easier to travel, but it does take some of the adventure out of going to a restaurant and seeign a menu entirely in Czech. I think that I have known what I have ordered everytime I have eaten. No accidental roasted pig knuckles for me! That is a good thing, I think.
While increasingly westernized, in most areas of Prague you can still walk without passing a McDonalds. Some areas, especially New Town, have a few more, but I think that is remarkable. People obviously eat out, but seem to avoid fast food--the cost may be one factor. A Big Mac meal is 149K, or about $9.00 or so. And yes, you can still supersize it. Oddly enough, despite a cuisine that is heavy on gravy and dumplings, the population seems to be thinner by far than what you would experience in say, Ohio. Certainly it is because they walk farther than we ever would. Alas, they balance that healthy part with the fact that more people smoke here than in the US. I think the rate is almost twice that of the US. Bars in particular are deadly. Thank you, Ohio, for passing the smoking ban. It surprises me. I wonder if their entry in the EU will force changes. Think of it--pubs in Ireland are smoke free, as are cafes in Paris.
Clearly Prague or at least Prague 1 exists for tourism and exists because of tourism. One interesting thing that has changed is the reduction in the number of shops selling crystal. I have noted this before, but it is very evident this trip. There used to be an annoying and amazing number of little shops that all sold basically the same thing. Now there are larger shops with better quality and a more diverse collection of crystal for sale. Clearly you don't have to travel far for that last minute gift of a little vase, but it might be a bit longer walk.
The Easter festival is so much fun. I think that it is interesting, in a country that has one of the lowest chuch attendance rates in Europe, that the whole country celebrates Easter as it does. To my benefit, I might add. Eating crispy sausages on wonderful bread, washed down by exceptional beer is not that much of a chore. Nor is sipping mulled wine while enjoying one of many small sweet treats. Good that I am walking 8-10 miles a day, as I suspect that this is not the ideal diet for me, but it sure is fun. I promise not to do this in Findlay at their Easter festival. Wait...oh well, I think I can keep that promise. One Easter tradition is one that I am betting will not catch on, though I am hopeful. You can buy plaited willow "whips" and single men can go to the houses of single women that they like and swat them on their legs. It is done to indicate that they like them, but also to encourage fertility and the chance to see if that is the case, if you can follow that. The women apparently enjoy this, and give the "swatter" a shot of alcohol and perhaps, a shot at love. It is too good of a tradition to transfer back to the states. I am still thinking of bringing back a switch. What can I lose by trying?
I better go and enjoy the weather. Best to all of you who can't say that phrase, and who are either freezing or fighting snow.
PS> About the photos. Steve has aced be on photos--his whole post today is a photo page. I am slow to figure out the limited technology, and the computers are a bit primitive. It is very difficult to post a vertical photo, but know that I am trying. I will share what I can soon.
It is another wonderful day in Prague. I cannot believe the weather, and all I can say is that we have been blessed and lucky beyond belief. I had watched the 10 day weather forecast before I left and it said rain and cloudy almost every day. It is nice to know that weather forecasters are lousy here, too. Tell me that people really thought that Columbus would have more snow in single snowfall than they ever had before. Well, at least we are on the positive side of bad weather forecasts!
There have been many changes in Praha that I have noticed, some since last time about 2 years ago, and many since the first time that I visited. Not all our good, and not all are bad, but they are differences. There is a tremendous increase in the numbers and percent of the people who can and do speak English. Every shop and pub has someone who speaks it quite well or well enough to communicate what you would like. Easier to travel, but it does take some of the adventure out of going to a restaurant and seeign a menu entirely in Czech. I think that I have known what I have ordered everytime I have eaten. No accidental roasted pig knuckles for me! That is a good thing, I think.
While increasingly westernized, in most areas of Prague you can still walk without passing a McDonalds. Some areas, especially New Town, have a few more, but I think that is remarkable. People obviously eat out, but seem to avoid fast food--the cost may be one factor. A Big Mac meal is 149K, or about $9.00 or so. And yes, you can still supersize it. Oddly enough, despite a cuisine that is heavy on gravy and dumplings, the population seems to be thinner by far than what you would experience in say, Ohio. Certainly it is because they walk farther than we ever would. Alas, they balance that healthy part with the fact that more people smoke here than in the US. I think the rate is almost twice that of the US. Bars in particular are deadly. Thank you, Ohio, for passing the smoking ban. It surprises me. I wonder if their entry in the EU will force changes. Think of it--pubs in Ireland are smoke free, as are cafes in Paris.
Clearly Prague or at least Prague 1 exists for tourism and exists because of tourism. One interesting thing that has changed is the reduction in the number of shops selling crystal. I have noted this before, but it is very evident this trip. There used to be an annoying and amazing number of little shops that all sold basically the same thing. Now there are larger shops with better quality and a more diverse collection of crystal for sale. Clearly you don't have to travel far for that last minute gift of a little vase, but it might be a bit longer walk.
The Easter festival is so much fun. I think that it is interesting, in a country that has one of the lowest chuch attendance rates in Europe, that the whole country celebrates Easter as it does. To my benefit, I might add. Eating crispy sausages on wonderful bread, washed down by exceptional beer is not that much of a chore. Nor is sipping mulled wine while enjoying one of many small sweet treats. Good that I am walking 8-10 miles a day, as I suspect that this is not the ideal diet for me, but it sure is fun. I promise not to do this in Findlay at their Easter festival. Wait...oh well, I think I can keep that promise. One Easter tradition is one that I am betting will not catch on, though I am hopeful. You can buy plaited willow "whips" and single men can go to the houses of single women that they like and swat them on their legs. It is done to indicate that they like them, but also to encourage fertility and the chance to see if that is the case, if you can follow that. The women apparently enjoy this, and give the "swatter" a shot of alcohol and perhaps, a shot at love. It is too good of a tradition to transfer back to the states. I am still thinking of bringing back a switch. What can I lose by trying?
I better go and enjoy the weather. Best to all of you who can't say that phrase, and who are either freezing or fighting snow.
PS> About the photos. Steve has aced be on photos--his whole post today is a photo page. I am slow to figure out the limited technology, and the computers are a bit primitive. It is very difficult to post a vertical photo, but know that I am trying. I will share what I can soon.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Sunday, and sunburned...
It is later on Sunday, and yes, I am actually sunburned. It was in the 50s today--how great is that? We walked and walked, and had a good day. I have more thoughts and comments, but I owe this site some pictures. My writer friend Steve has more photos on his site than I do on mine, and though I just "write like I talk" I have more words. Life his funny. Here are some photos...Above: This is the coffee shop in the Hotel Europa--What great space!
I am in love with the Smart Car, and have been for years. The new one is even smaller. Here Steve, who is 6"3, shows how small the car really is. Can you imagine it in a crash with a Honda Pilot or an Expedition? I think it would fit in the back of a Pilot!
I think that I like and I am struck by the many contrasts between new and old in Prague. here, in front of an 18th century church, the building was tagged, showing one such contrast. (Keep scrolling down for more photos.)
Again, here is another one of those contrasts that make the city so interesting. This is Prague looking to the south. Note the 19th century buildings in the front, and skyscrapers being built in the background. One is for a bank, the other for an insurance company.
This is Steve, near Charles University. The day was perfect, and the light wonderful. I keep teasing him that his photos might be improving because of having me along, but that the improvement in my writing is less certain and certainly less obvious.
This is what I look like, or like I do when I am wandering around with my camera. It is fun, but it is very heavy, and it seems like a chore sometimes. I wish that I had brought a better "other" camera for those times when I am out of film or out of energy for carrying it. It is fun having people stop me and chat...I talked to a man from China about it who sells $199 laptops, a semi-conductor exec from Dresden, and a woman from Switzerland who, when I took a picture of her with her camera, said that all other cameras must seem like little kids' cameras after using this.
Saturday, March 8, 2008
Saturday, later...
It is later Saturday night, and we are the Bohemia Bagel catching up. It was a slower day, and it dif not go as planed. It is funny--one over-educated person and one increasingly overeducated person, who, I might add, is a theology student, and together we never even thought that the Jewish Quarter might not be open on shabbat. Smart dudes. I was teasing Steve, and kept saying, wow, it is dead here, it's like Sunday morning. I suppose that is politically incorrect, but kind of funny.
So we shopped and wandered around. It was colder and grayer today, so it was a good day to be less focused. The best part was the Easter festival. Held in Old Town Square, it is a mix of a fair food bash and a tourist trap gee-gaw gallery. The food was wonderful. Super sausages, incredible crepes (with Nutella, of course) and mellowing mulled wine. OK, a silly description but it was a great treat. Think about it. The Hancock County fair has elephant ears (they have them here, too, but put garlic butter on them) and here they have honest to goodness real crepes. I have had better crepes and even helped make them (thanks Sue and Kathy) but then again, we weren't making thousands of them.
We got back about 6 and slept in a power nap. I think that we are both a little foot sore today-- a lot of walking and bouncing on cobblestones. Nothing that a little Motrin won't cure.
Nothing profound tonight. I have a post planned for tomorrow AM, and will post photos, I promise.
My friend Mindy noted that Hancock County is under a level III snow emergency--bummer for all of you who are housebound. Stay safe and get out when you can.
Thanks for your warm thoughts.
So we shopped and wandered around. It was colder and grayer today, so it was a good day to be less focused. The best part was the Easter festival. Held in Old Town Square, it is a mix of a fair food bash and a tourist trap gee-gaw gallery. The food was wonderful. Super sausages, incredible crepes (with Nutella, of course) and mellowing mulled wine. OK, a silly description but it was a great treat. Think about it. The Hancock County fair has elephant ears (they have them here, too, but put garlic butter on them) and here they have honest to goodness real crepes. I have had better crepes and even helped make them (thanks Sue and Kathy) but then again, we weren't making thousands of them.
We got back about 6 and slept in a power nap. I think that we are both a little foot sore today-- a lot of walking and bouncing on cobblestones. Nothing that a little Motrin won't cure.
Nothing profound tonight. I have a post planned for tomorrow AM, and will post photos, I promise.
My friend Mindy noted that Hancock County is under a level III snow emergency--bummer for all of you who are housebound. Stay safe and get out when you can.
Thanks for your warm thoughts.
Saturday, in the park...
It is only fitting that I start with Chicago lyrics. Praha is in a time warp of music, with the stations stuck in the 1980s. Here is my compilation....
Footloose
Oh what a feeling
Another day of Paradise
Anyway you want it
de do do do de da da da
I still haven't found what I am looking for
I think that is funny--too bad I killed so many brain cells in that decade, or I might remember more words.
There have been a few stories about the weak dollar, and how it has helped US exports, but it is odd what is exported. Embarrassing, really, what "America" has exported. Of course, the 1980s rock is one such thing. We walked past a "As seen on TV" store last night. Yes, even in Praha you can own your own Ronco Dice-o-matic and about everything else you could purchase in that section of a Wal-mart. Jack Daniels is big, and there is of course Coke Lite everywhere. Steve's orange juice from this morning was entirely labeled in Czech, except the blurb that stated that it was bottled by the Coca Cola bottling corp CZ.
One thing that is not omni-present is the Starbucks store. The first one finally did open at the end of January in Prague, but they do not dominate every corner like they do in many places. In fact, the local coffee shop is often the center piece of many neighborhoods, and they are wonderful. I will add a photo from the Hotel Europa's coffee shop, and you will be able to see what a great place it is, and we have found more like that.
Today we are visiting the Jewish Quarter. It should be interesting...As an historian, I find the history fascinating. I suspect Steve, who is studying to be a minister, will see (and feel) the historical and religious significance of the place. It is spiritual.
More soon, with photos
Footloose
Oh what a feeling
Another day of Paradise
Anyway you want it
de do do do de da da da
I still haven't found what I am looking for
I think that is funny--too bad I killed so many brain cells in that decade, or I might remember more words.
There have been a few stories about the weak dollar, and how it has helped US exports, but it is odd what is exported. Embarrassing, really, what "America" has exported. Of course, the 1980s rock is one such thing. We walked past a "As seen on TV" store last night. Yes, even in Praha you can own your own Ronco Dice-o-matic and about everything else you could purchase in that section of a Wal-mart. Jack Daniels is big, and there is of course Coke Lite everywhere. Steve's orange juice from this morning was entirely labeled in Czech, except the blurb that stated that it was bottled by the Coca Cola bottling corp CZ.
One thing that is not omni-present is the Starbucks store. The first one finally did open at the end of January in Prague, but they do not dominate every corner like they do in many places. In fact, the local coffee shop is often the center piece of many neighborhoods, and they are wonderful. I will add a photo from the Hotel Europa's coffee shop, and you will be able to see what a great place it is, and we have found more like that.
Today we are visiting the Jewish Quarter. It should be interesting...As an historian, I find the history fascinating. I suspect Steve, who is studying to be a minister, will see (and feel) the historical and religious significance of the place. It is spiritual.
More soon, with photos
Friday, March 7, 2008
Friday, later...
Poem for later in the day...
Spring is sprung
The grass is riz
I wonder
Where the birdies is?
It is spring in Praha, which is quite different than saying the Prague Spring, if you catch the historical reference. It had to be near 50, with sunshine today, and it was absolutely wonderful to be out and about. In fact, I think that I may be sunburned or at least wind burned. My apologies to this stuck in Ohio, with the 6-8 inches of snow expected for tonight. I do feel badly. Sort of. (-:
Today was a great day to walk from the Old Town to the New Town, and then walk some more. The best part of it all is the serendipity of it all. We came across a little jewel of a Jesuit church that was just stunning, and I bet that I have walked by it before. I just never looked in. I sneaked a photo that if it turns out will be perhaps the prize of the trip. Amazing church, and amazing light.
We avoided getting run over, which is no small feat, considering the traffic and the way traffic signals are more vague suggestions than commands. Of course, there is some glory in getting run over by a street car. At least some romance. Better than getting run over by a Skoda.
I took a few photos today with my 4X5, and that was fun. It is a fun process but after carrying it all day, I was glad to drop it off at the apartment and call it a day for photos. My bag, tripod and all the gadgets weigh about 35 pounds, and it is tiring, especially so when you have to pay attention on the cobblestones. How did Joseph Sudek every manage? And his camera was even larger. Us Americans are soft. Steve laughed because we could be at a tremendous tourist site and people would be looking at me taking photos rather than the church or whatever.
Tomorrow we will look through the Jewish Quarter and be tourists. My goal is to be up early for some photos before we start the day. More probably later in the day for you all.
Hope all is well. Stay warm and safe.
Spring is sprung
The grass is riz
I wonder
Where the birdies is?
It is spring in Praha, which is quite different than saying the Prague Spring, if you catch the historical reference. It had to be near 50, with sunshine today, and it was absolutely wonderful to be out and about. In fact, I think that I may be sunburned or at least wind burned. My apologies to this stuck in Ohio, with the 6-8 inches of snow expected for tonight. I do feel badly. Sort of. (-:
Today was a great day to walk from the Old Town to the New Town, and then walk some more. The best part of it all is the serendipity of it all. We came across a little jewel of a Jesuit church that was just stunning, and I bet that I have walked by it before. I just never looked in. I sneaked a photo that if it turns out will be perhaps the prize of the trip. Amazing church, and amazing light.
We avoided getting run over, which is no small feat, considering the traffic and the way traffic signals are more vague suggestions than commands. Of course, there is some glory in getting run over by a street car. At least some romance. Better than getting run over by a Skoda.
I took a few photos today with my 4X5, and that was fun. It is a fun process but after carrying it all day, I was glad to drop it off at the apartment and call it a day for photos. My bag, tripod and all the gadgets weigh about 35 pounds, and it is tiring, especially so when you have to pay attention on the cobblestones. How did Joseph Sudek every manage? And his camera was even larger. Us Americans are soft. Steve laughed because we could be at a tremendous tourist site and people would be looking at me taking photos rather than the church or whatever.
Tomorrow we will look through the Jewish Quarter and be tourists. My goal is to be up early for some photos before we start the day. More probably later in the day for you all.
Hope all is well. Stay warm and safe.
Day two, from Praha
Poem for the day, from the restroom wall...
I am a million miles away
Floating like driftwood on the bay
This is day two, and I am sitting in my new favorite breakfast place in the city, Bohemia Bagles. Cheap coffee, great bagles, and an internet cafe--what more do you need? It is about 11, and while I have been up and have been out and about for several hours, we haven't really begun our adventure for the day.
Yesterday was wonderful. Great weather, and just a laid back day fo walking around and getting the lay of the land. It was and is fun to see familiar sights through new eyes, and Steve is a good traveler. Yesterday we walked off our travel-induced sleep deprivation, and lasted until all of about 8PM. I was in bed and asleep by 8:30--quite the international partier.
It is interesting to try and interpret the political winds here. There is a strong anti-American buzz here, due mostly to the war and to the anti-missile system that Bush wants to put in the countryside. It is opposed by 70% of the people, but the Czech premier has gone along with this. Made him unpopular, and the US even more unpopular. No real anti-American sentiment that I have sensed per-se. Perhaps most people realize that their leaders do what they want, despite the will of the people. Democracy is great!
It humbles me everytime that I am abroad on how much of a world view that others have. We have not been anywhere where English is not spoken well enough to conduct business, and often well enough to converse with the people. Often you hear the same person speaking two or more languages beyond English...makes our basic high school Spanish seem pretty inadequate. I am sure that the US presidential election is important to the world, but Prague could read about it, along with seeing pictures of McClain and Sen. Clinton on the front page of all of their papers. I don't that 99.9% of Americans even knew that the Czech prime minister has ever visited the US, and he was there last week. We are an insular nation, and while we might be able to afford that now, it also makes us a nation ignorant of the rest of the world. And insensitive.
Steve and I are going to just wander today and try and develop a better sense of where we are in the city. We are about 5 blocks from Old Town Square, and it is a great location. But, it took us a while to figure out where we lived last night, so a better spatial awareness needs to be developed or we will just wander around all night. I am bringing my 4X5 out today for the first time, and that should be interesting. Great light today, bright overcast, and it is too nice to pass. I will come back buff from all the walking and the carrying. Wait, I mean I will be buffer!
Have a good day, all, and know that I am collecting stories to share when I make it back. A few photos, too.
I am a million miles away
Floating like driftwood on the bay
This is day two, and I am sitting in my new favorite breakfast place in the city, Bohemia Bagles. Cheap coffee, great bagles, and an internet cafe--what more do you need? It is about 11, and while I have been up and have been out and about for several hours, we haven't really begun our adventure for the day.
Yesterday was wonderful. Great weather, and just a laid back day fo walking around and getting the lay of the land. It was and is fun to see familiar sights through new eyes, and Steve is a good traveler. Yesterday we walked off our travel-induced sleep deprivation, and lasted until all of about 8PM. I was in bed and asleep by 8:30--quite the international partier.
It is interesting to try and interpret the political winds here. There is a strong anti-American buzz here, due mostly to the war and to the anti-missile system that Bush wants to put in the countryside. It is opposed by 70% of the people, but the Czech premier has gone along with this. Made him unpopular, and the US even more unpopular. No real anti-American sentiment that I have sensed per-se. Perhaps most people realize that their leaders do what they want, despite the will of the people. Democracy is great!
It humbles me everytime that I am abroad on how much of a world view that others have. We have not been anywhere where English is not spoken well enough to conduct business, and often well enough to converse with the people. Often you hear the same person speaking two or more languages beyond English...makes our basic high school Spanish seem pretty inadequate. I am sure that the US presidential election is important to the world, but Prague could read about it, along with seeing pictures of McClain and Sen. Clinton on the front page of all of their papers. I don't that 99.9% of Americans even knew that the Czech prime minister has ever visited the US, and he was there last week. We are an insular nation, and while we might be able to afford that now, it also makes us a nation ignorant of the rest of the world. And insensitive.
Steve and I are going to just wander today and try and develop a better sense of where we are in the city. We are about 5 blocks from Old Town Square, and it is a great location. But, it took us a while to figure out where we lived last night, so a better spatial awareness needs to be developed or we will just wander around all night. I am bringing my 4X5 out today for the first time, and that should be interesting. Great light today, bright overcast, and it is too nice to pass. I will come back buff from all the walking and the carrying. Wait, I mean I will be buffer!
Have a good day, all, and know that I am collecting stories to share when I make it back. A few photos, too.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Welcome to Praha
Well, we made it with a bare minimum of fuss. It is an absolutely wonderful day, with sunshine and temps in the mid 40s, so there is nothing to complain about at all. It is so nice to be away and in a fun place. Right now we are in Bohemia Bagels, a bit touristy but close by and a nice place to start.
The flight really was uneventful and easy. It's is long but what can you expect? I read a whole book, and slept. For the first time in a long time the plane was about 1/2 full. That hasn't happened in a long time, but it made it ever so much more comfortable. No good stories at all--kind of routine, really.
The apartment is something else--great location, and it is very nice. It could easily sleep 6 or more, and it is very comfortable. Great light, 14 foot ceilings, and 5-6 rooms. ast apartments have been nice, but this is huge and nice. We got there, got cleaned up, and then started wandering.
It is expensive, or at least it is compared to past visits. Beer, for example, costs about $1.50 in a bar, which is about three times what it was less than 2 years ago, but then again, we are in the tourist corner of town, so to speak, so it will be better. There is less construction, but it still feels pretty new and glitzy on the edges of the old and new towns, but then again, we just drove by all of this. I am anxious to see what the city is like again, and to see how else the city has changed, or, I suppose, if it really has changed.
Today will be a short day--I think that we are going to see where we are, and orient ourselves a bit. Later we will get some stuff for the apartment so we at least have water, etc. I actually remembered most things, so I don't shop for a new wardrobe or for any thing major. Once we are done with all that, I suspect that we will call it a night. Its official--I have been up for 24 hours with little sleep and I am winding down.
I hope all is well back home, and that people are safe and warm. Think of us brave adventurers and laugh with us. I feel kind of humbled--traveling with a journalist will put my blog to shame, though I was brave enough to link his to mine. I might add, though, that he chose my photo to illustrate his blog!. There is a slam there somewhere, but I am too tired to get that right now.
But know all is well, and that I will write more when I can.
The flight really was uneventful and easy. It's is long but what can you expect? I read a whole book, and slept. For the first time in a long time the plane was about 1/2 full. That hasn't happened in a long time, but it made it ever so much more comfortable. No good stories at all--kind of routine, really.
The apartment is something else--great location, and it is very nice. It could easily sleep 6 or more, and it is very comfortable. Great light, 14 foot ceilings, and 5-6 rooms. ast apartments have been nice, but this is huge and nice. We got there, got cleaned up, and then started wandering.
It is expensive, or at least it is compared to past visits. Beer, for example, costs about $1.50 in a bar, which is about three times what it was less than 2 years ago, but then again, we are in the tourist corner of town, so to speak, so it will be better. There is less construction, but it still feels pretty new and glitzy on the edges of the old and new towns, but then again, we just drove by all of this. I am anxious to see what the city is like again, and to see how else the city has changed, or, I suppose, if it really has changed.
Today will be a short day--I think that we are going to see where we are, and orient ourselves a bit. Later we will get some stuff for the apartment so we at least have water, etc. I actually remembered most things, so I don't shop for a new wardrobe or for any thing major. Once we are done with all that, I suspect that we will call it a night. Its official--I have been up for 24 hours with little sleep and I am winding down.
I hope all is well back home, and that people are safe and warm. Think of us brave adventurers and laugh with us. I feel kind of humbled--traveling with a journalist will put my blog to shame, though I was brave enough to link his to mine. I might add, though, that he chose my photo to illustrate his blog!. There is a slam there somewhere, but I am too tired to get that right now.
But know all is well, and that I will write more when I can.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Just about ready...
Tis the night before, as they say, and I am mostly ready for the trip. Some minor packing, a few work, and a few personal things to finish up and then I am off. It will be good to get away--I have not been the happiest at work right now, and I need the break, and I suspect that they need the break from me, too!
Today I was in Columbus for a conference and a presentation. It went well, but the road trip back was miserable. Snow, ice, wind, etc. Findlay is to flood again tomorrow--the 6th time in 7 months. What is next, locusts and boils? What a miserable winter, and it is dragging on and on. It was a 100 mile trip that took 3+ hours. Now, it can't be that bad in Prague. The weather report predicts some rain, and temps in the 40s. Doable after this.
Tomorrow will be tough...It is still snowing, and it may not be that much fun getting to Detroit. A really good friend was commenting that while it is her spring break, there is a pretty good chance that she will have her kids tomorrow, as Findlay and most of NW Ohio will have yet another snow day. I am telling you, that even the semi-moderate temps of Praha look pretty good.
I should be mobile in Prague late afternoon, or about 10PM Findlay time on Thursday. I promise to write either that day or right away on Friday. Let's hope for good weather, here and there.
Monday, March 3, 2008
Getting ready
Though I have to think of myself as a fairly seasoned traveler, this trip has made me feel like it is my first time away from home. For example, I almost tried to leave on a passport that that was set to expire, and had to spend $305 to expedite an expedited passport. What a rookie mistake, and one that I always warn people about.
Those of you who know me will laugh at this--I am almost completely packed, days before I am set to leave. Normally I pack minutes before I leave. I have packed and repacked, changed bags, worried about what to wear and bring, and, GASP, even made about eight lists so that I don't forget anything. This from person who has traveled and actually forget his luggage, and who always always forgets things, from toothbrushes to cameras to underwear. What is wrong with me? (-:
I think in part it is because I am so excited to just go. I think to go anywhere but especially Europe. It has been a long time, and I do honestly love Prague. It is a wonderful city and it has great memories, and it is constantly changing. I am anxious to travel with a friend to this fun place--his wife got to go to Italy, but I think he won by getting to go to Prague. It will be fun to see it with new eyes, and to have new experiences. I also am excited, and here is the camera geek in me, because I get to take pictures for a week. Weird, I know, but fun for me.
Wednesday is a travel day, but I will write on Thursday, probably pretty late.
Please comment when you can and please, laugh and travel with me on this...
Those of you who know me will laugh at this--I am almost completely packed, days before I am set to leave. Normally I pack minutes before I leave. I have packed and repacked, changed bags, worried about what to wear and bring, and, GASP, even made about eight lists so that I don't forget anything. This from person who has traveled and actually forget his luggage, and who always always forgets things, from toothbrushes to cameras to underwear. What is wrong with me? (-:
I think in part it is because I am so excited to just go. I think to go anywhere but especially Europe. It has been a long time, and I do honestly love Prague. It is a wonderful city and it has great memories, and it is constantly changing. I am anxious to travel with a friend to this fun place--his wife got to go to Italy, but I think he won by getting to go to Prague. It will be fun to see it with new eyes, and to have new experiences. I also am excited, and here is the camera geek in me, because I get to take pictures for a week. Weird, I know, but fun for me.
Wednesday is a travel day, but I will write on Thursday, probably pretty late.
Please comment when you can and please, laugh and travel with me on this...
Friday, February 29, 2008
Adventures are fun...
After being away from Europe for almost 18 months, it is time for another adventure. This time, it is Prague again, and I am longing to be back. I miss the bridge and the beer, and feeling far away.
So I am heading back. For a week I will be in Prague with a friend, and I am looking forward to it. My long-time friend, Steve, who has never been to Europe, and I will visit Praha and then Budapest. We have no agenda other than going on an adventure. What more can you ask for from a week in March?
More from the road...
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